New Truck, Same Old Great Goat Curry at Jamaican Dutchy
The other week, we were happy to report that O’Neill and the Jamaican Dutchy truck is back in action in Midtown, and it seems like they’ve found a permanent spot (for now) on 52nd between 5th & 6th ave. I stopped by for lunch the other day, and despite the flashy new truck, the food is just as good as always.
The large goat curry platter ($11 – also available in a small size for $9) is not a dish for the fainthearted or unadventurous – consider yourself warned. It’s a tremendous amount of food, which few could finish in one sitting. It’s also a minefield of bone shards, skin, fat and connective tissue, which certainly adds to the authenticity of the dish and gives it rustic appeal. But there’s plenty of braised goat meat, which is fall-off-the-bone tender and terrifically luscious. O’Neill expertly coddles the ruminant, teasing out the meaty notes while dissipating a bit of the barnyard, goaty flavor. And in the background, there’s an exhilarating tingle of allspice. The meat also imparts its goodness into the rice and beans, making it so appealing that you’ll want to continue shoving mouthfuls of it down, despite urgent pleas from your stomach to cease.
After all these years, the Jamaican Dutchy continues to work its magic, and the lines that reliably form around lunchtime are testament to the quality of the product. Zach first ‘discovered’ this cart 4 years ago almost to the day, and with quality product and devoted customers like this, I daresay we can expect the next 4 years to be filled with delicious Jamaican food.