French Steak Splurge Gets One NYT Star

lerelaissteakIt’s not often that the restaurant review in the New York Times intersects with Midtown Lunch. It happened last July when Frank Bruni bestowed two stars on our humble Szechuan Gourmet. And today newcomer Sam Sifton has done it again, giving a single star to Le Relais de Venise L’entrecote (on Lex and 52nd.) A meal at this spot, which has no menus and only one main course (steak frites), costs $24- so technically it’s not a Midtown Lunch at all. But I’ve been kind of obsessed with the place since reading about it on Serious Eats at the beginning of the summer. Now that Sifton, who has quickly become my favorite food reviewer of all time with his rock star review of DBGB and references to General Tso’s chicken, has given it a star I don’t see how I can avoid the lunchtime splurge. (I’m guessing I’m not the only one.)

Le Relais de Venise L’Entrecote is My Kind of Splurge
Szechuan Gourmet: Day 1 as a NYT 2 Starred Restaurant

Photo courtesy of Nick Solares


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