Midtown Lunch

Trini Paki Boys Cart, 2006

I think it’s so cool that even after doing this for 3+ years I can still be surprised by something that had been right under my nose the entire time.  It’s the beauty of lunching in Midtown. No matter how long you do it, no matter how much you eat out, there is always something new to discover.  And sometimes it’s not even new… just new to you.  Such is the case with the Trini Paki Boys Cart on 43rd & 6th.

This cart really needs no introduction.  It’s been around for god knows how long (possibly 25+ years), and it has always been considered one of the best chicken and rice carts in Midtown.  Lately, it hasn’t gotten as much press (or long lines) as the cart on 53rd & 6th or the Biryani Cart- but if you had to pick a hall of fame of Midtown street meat, it would easily make the first ballot.  I first wrote about them in September of 2006, and they competed in last year’s Street Meat Palooza. I knew there was always something a bit different about their food, and there has been a lot of speculation about their name (Pakistan I get, but Trinidad?  Where’s the connection?)  It’s even a favorite of food media royalty, like Ruth Reichl and Pete Wells.  But admittedly it’s been awhile since I’ve actually eaten at the cart, and amazingly enough it took a trip with a New York Times reporter to unlock its full awesomeness.

What I’m about to share with you is easily the coolest thing (for me) that came out of that New York Times piece about Midtown Lunch a few weeks ago.  As research for the article, the reporter, Julia Moskin asked me to take her around to my favorite lunch spots in Midtown.  We started by having some chaat and Latin food at the Indian Newsstand on 6th Ave., before heading to the NYC Cravings truck for some Taiwanese fried chicken and pork chops. Finally we ended up at the Biryani Cart for a few kati rolls.  On the way back to the NYT Building she asked if we could stop at just one more, so I casually suggested the Trini Paki Boys cart on 43rd & 6th as an oldie but goodie (admitting that I hadn’t been in awhile, but that it’s a really well known and loved cart.)

From the moment we walked up, Julia (being the real reporter that she is) began uncovering one amazing thing after another about this cart.  First, she noticed something I can’t believe I had missed. “They have doubles,” she stated matter-of-factly.  And sure enough there it was hand written on their otherwise printed menu.  “Doubles and polourie.”  GET OUT OF TOWN!  Now for those who are unfamiliar with doubles, they are a Trinidadian treat (usually eaten for breakfast) that consist of two pieces of fry bread, or roti as it’s called, stuffed with a curried chick pea mixture. Getting one of these in Midtown has been a longtime dream of mine, and to find out that they were being offered all this time at a well known cart, was… well… kind of embarassing.  (But super exciting!)

Julia also discovered that the woman who owns the cart is from Trinidad, and her husband, who originally ran the cart back in the day and does most of the cooking, is from Pakistan. Hence… the Trini Paki Boys cart. (It was named this by their sons, who now run the cart with their mom.) Julia also informed me that there is some kind of connection between the two countries, and there is a large Pakistani population in Trinidad- although these two met here in the U.S.

It was kind of cool to watch a real reporter at work.  I’m a fat guy, and I like to eat.  But I’m no reporter.  Sure, I find out bits of good info here and there and try to pass it on to you guys. But nothing like this.  Pulitzer prize winning journalist I am not.  Embarrassment aside, from discovering all these things that theoretically I should have already known, I could not have been more excited.  And it didn’t stop there.  Not only did they have doubles and polouri.  But on Thursdays the cart offers two specials: biryani and dahi bala, another popular Pakistani snack.  This was just too much for one day.  Sadly that day was a Friday, so I vowed to come back the next Thursday and try this newly discovered menu.

And then the clouds came.  The very next Thursday, I returned only to be told they didn’t make biryani or doubles or any of the special menu. When the forecast calls for rain, they don’t make it because they have less customers  and usually end up having to throw food away.  The Thursday after that I returned again, and got the same story.  Mind you, it wasn’t raining- just cloudy.  But they didn’t know it was going to be like that the night before.  So, no biryani.  Finally I said to them “listen, next week please make some biryani.  Just a little bit.  And one double.  I just want to try it.  I don’t care what the weather is, I promise I will come.  I NEED BIRYANI!”  The guy agreed.

Sure enough when I returned last Thursday, it was completely pouring (of course!)- but they stayed true to their word, and made everything.  Biryani, doubles, dahi bala, and polouri.  And I ordered it all.  And it was amazing. Alright, enough of this long drawn out story.  On to the food:

I started off with a small order of the old standby, chicken over rice.  One of the other mysteries Julia unlocked was about their “hot sauce” (or what I called “brown sauce” in my original write up.)  It’s actually a pretty traditional Trinidadian “pepper sauce” made from scotch bonnet peppers.  The chicken gets seasonings you might find in food from Pakistan. And the “white sauce” is completely yogurt based. It’s the ultimate in fusion cuisine, and accounts for why the food tastes so much different than your standard Midtown chicken and rice plate.  The small is $4 and comes in that clear plastic container seen above, medium is $5 and comes in a small styrofoam container, and the large is $6 and comes in a large styrofoam container.  You get your choice of rice, but always order the “white” or plain basmati rice.  We found that out the hard way during last year’s Street Meat Palooza (so we’re giving them another shot this year, and we’re going to order the white rice this time.)

Next up was the chicken biryani.  Unlike the biryani served at the Biryani Cart, which is cooked on the flattop with a ton of oil and spices, this biryani is made in advace in the traditional Pakistani way (with garam masala.)  It’s much less greasy, and some might complain that it’s a tad bit dry, but I actually like my biryani this way. The flavors are also more subtle than the Biryani Cart version, but no less delicious. And the hint of cinnamon gives it a great sweetness.  So good!  The one non-traditional thing about it is that it’s not spicy at all.  They figure if you want it to be spicy, they’ll just add the pepper sauce on top- which gives it this delicious, “what biryani would taste like if it was from the Carribean” kind of flavor.

The dahi bala ($3), which is also only offered on Thursdays, was good too.  Essentially it’s just a flat round fritter made of chick peas, fried and then covered in their yogurt sauce with shredded carrots.  Out of all the things we tried, it was my least favorite… but still good.  I’ve never had dahi bala before so I’m not exactly sure how this compares to other versions, but their yogurt sauce is delicious (even though it completely overwhelmed the flavor of the fritter.)

The polourie, which they try to have every day, was far better.  I mean, what’s not to like.  Small balls of fried chick pea dough, covered in their spicy tamarind chutney.  Delicious, and at $1 a complete steal.  Possibly one of the best snacks in all of Midtown.

Samosas are actually one of the few things that I knew they offered in addition to their chicken over rice.  They offer chicken and beef, and t $1 each they’re also a great deal.

Finally I had my double, which completely lived up to my expectations.  I love the roti, and the curry chick peas mixture on the inside was delicious.  A little tamarind chutney made it sweet and sour and spicy (a combo that I love), and I could totally imagine one of these for breakfast… or lunch… or dinner… or a midday snack.  And not to sound like a broken record, but at $1.50 they are also a steal. I know you can get doubles in the outer boroughs, and I’ll admit I don’t have that much experience with doubles- so I’m not sure how the Trini-Pak version holds up.  But to this novice, they were awesome.

Right now, they try to have doubles, samosas, and polourie every single day. And chicken biryani and dahi bala only on Thursdays.  It remind me of a time when the Biryani Cart alternated between making biryani and chicken tikka masala (remember that?) Now Biryani Cart has both every day, and there’s no reason the Trini-Paki cart can’t do the same.  The lady who owns the cart told me she’d be willing to sell biryani every day if people were interested in buying it. And not just chicken biryani, but goat, lamb, and beef as well.  Now that would be amazing!

So there you have it.  Everything I never knew about the Trini Paki Cart, which clearly deserves to have lines as long as those at the Biryani Cart, Kwik Meal, and the Halal Guys at 53rd & 6th.  For those of you who already knew, sorry for spoiling your Thursday special secret. Take comfort in knowing that when all is said and done you’ll be rewarded.  Now that all Midtown Lunchers know, it’s only matter of time before we get Trini Paki biryani every single day.  It’s that good.

Trini Paki Boys Cart, SE Corner of 43rd Street & 6th Ave.