Midtown Lunch

Despite it being a little late in the season to begin selling ice cream sandwiches, Smush “The NY Deli of Desserts” (40th btw 5th+6th) opened its doors late last week. I was just as confused as you about what “deli of desserts” could possibly mean and whether or not it really involved penguins wearing hats, so I did what any rational being would do, I stopped by, hoping to eat ice cream while making penguin friends.

I do have to say that Smush is doing something a little more original and unique than just plopping ice cream between two cookies–they really thought out this “deli” concept in that you’re making a deli-esque sandwich. There are thought out combinations to pick from, or you can go your own route and make-your-own. For each part of your sandwich, they have numerous options to choose from. The chewy cookie bases are shaped like bread, and even have a little crunchiness around the edges similar to a crust. In place of condiments, you pick from sauces (Nutella, caramel, etc) that are zigzagged across the cookie “slices”. Their homemade fudge is run through a deli slicer in order to look like cheese. The rich ice cream patty is made specifically for them from a small company in Connecticut, and frozen into shape. And in place of lettuce and tomato, you can choose things like bananas, strawberries, or pretzel pieces.

For my sandwich, I went my own way. French toast cookies that are sprinkled with sugar, Nutella sauce, then a milk chocolate fudge slice and kettle-style potato chip pieces surrounding my vanilla ice cream patty. Because of all the accoutrements, this sandwich is one of the better ones I’ve had all year. The patty’s shape along with the chewy nature of the cookies protects against the bite-down slippage pretty well; nothing makes me unhappier than an ice cream sandwich with structural flaws. They’re even so thoughtful as to include a wet-nap with your sandwich for the inevitable stickiness. You can sit and eat on their “stoop” aka a set of stairs in the store, but depending on your love of house music, you might opt for the relative quiet of Bryant Park across the street. This sandwich is also pricey, as after-tax it clocks in around $6.50, though that doesn’t make it the most expensive in the city. But it’s definitely something that can be split between two people, and each would be amply satisfied.

Smush, 28 West 40th Street, no phone