Midtown Lunch

Ever since Momofuku Má Pêche opened back in 2009, they’ve done an admirable job of giving us good reasons to come back time and time again, whether it’s for their sandwich specials, avant-garde croissants, or ever-changing line-up of tasty sweets.

And last week, they unveiled two new sandwiches, a lamb neck banh mi and a braised beef hero with bone marrow.

The main draw for me was the lamb neck banh mi, which breaks ML boundaries a bit at $12. But for a sandwich of this caliber and pedigree, I think we’re allowed to break the rules every once in a while. It’s a good crusty baguette filled with chunks of tender, collagen-y lamb neck, accessorized by peppery mizuna, sweet roasted eggplant and pickled cranberries. I thought that the flavors were beautifully balanced – a bit of piquant from the lettuce, and sweet and sour from the cranberries harmonizing with the meatiness and gaminess of the lamb. And something in the sandwich, perhaps the marinade on the lamb, brought a mellow lingering heat.

The lamb banh mi is joined by another new-comer, a braised beef hero which is brushed with salty crab mayo, refreshing and crunchy strips of green papaya and flanked with a creamy smattering of bone marrow. For the $10 price tag, it’s a mite petite, but keep in mind that price includes gorgeously tender beef from Niman Ranch, and the opulence of bone marrow.

Like the good folks over at Certe, Momofuku’s Má Pêche seems to relish the challenge of creating a gourmet, yet affordable sandwich for the lunchers of midtown. And as long as they keep giving us good reasons to come back, we’ll continue to sing their praises.

Ma Peche and Momofuku Milk Bar, 15 W. 56th St. btw 5th+6th Ave, 212-555-1212