The New Pa Ord is a Thai Town/Thai Foon Hybrid


At this point it’s common knowledge that Los Angeles is home to the most culturally diverse food landscape in all of the country (possibly the world.)  But to call it a melting pot would be a little misleading, since most of the best versions of each cuisine represented in L.A. can mostly be found in their own specific neighborhood.  Thai food in Thai Town, Korean food in Koreatown, and so on.  Good Chinese food outside of Chinatown and the San Gabriel Valley?  Good luck.  Naturally, there are exceptions.  And as more and more people become interested in following Jonathan Gold to the next foreign treasure it only makes sense that more treasures are creeping outside of their own enclaves.

Boyle Heights’ Guisados opened up a new Echo Park location less than 3 miles away from the original. A second Mariscos Jalisco truck?  Same deal.  And now there’s Pa Ord, the boat noodle specialist from Thai Town who recently bought Thai Foon on La Brea and Sunset.  Close enough to Thai Town to make you consider just going to the original, far enough a way to make it conveniently worth it not to.


Longtime fans of Pa Ord will be comforted by the numbered jars of noodles on top of the counter.  And while the menu isn’t identical to the original, it seems to hit all the favorites.


Like the boat noodles, which seemed a bit sweeter and not entirely as good as the original while still managing to hit all the same notes: sweet, sour, spicy and funky, thanks to the liver, tripe, meatballs and tendon floating beneath the murk.  There were also the signature chicharrones on top. Definitely the best version of this soup you’ll be finding outside of Thai Town.


There’s also crispy pork with chinese broccoli (or mint leaves.) It’s a bit dry and not nearly as good as the versions being served at Sapp, Ruen Pair, or Hoy Ka, but I don’t remember Pa Ord’s version of this ever being one of their best dishes.


And fans of Thai Foon, there’s something for you too!  The staff of Thai Foon is still around, along with their lunch and chef’s specials, signaling to the old patrons that nothing has changed for them while they try and attract new customers with a real taste of Thai Town. Is it weird to see orange chicken and coconut shrimp on a Pa Ord menu?  Sure. But if that’s what it takes to help the slow spread of decent Thai food beyond Thai Town, I’ll take it.

Pa Ord, 7075 W Sunset Blvd (nr. La Brea) 323-464-2989


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