Midtown Lunch

Today, we are getting a report on Zento from profiled luncher Stephanie. Their doburi looks way better than the one at Fat Salmon. But be aware that soon they will be moving 2 blocks down the street from their current location.

While Philadelphia is a treasure trove of culinary offerings, the city has a serious shortage of affordable, authentic Japanese options. Imagine my sheer delight Monday morning when I walked passed Zento on my way to work, and saw a menu featuring “Express Lunch” options priced around $10.

Bento boxes, sushi combos, different donburis, and an assortment of udon… my inner glutton instantly planned my next four lunches of the week. Unable to recall the last time I had katsudon, I decided to order the “Chicken Katsu Donburi.”

At $8, my meal deal came with traditional miso soup and a mixed salad. The miso soup was the perfect lunch precursor on a winter day, with bits of scallions and tofu, tasting distinctly of sweet bonito stock. The salad was a fresh presentation of crisp greens, tossed with ginger dressing and topped with a sprinkling of sesame seeds.

My entree was presented shortly after — a dazzling display of “Chicken Katsu Donburi.” Adorned with two broccoli florets, my lunch as almost too pretty to eat.

Almost.

A true lunch stalwart, my delicious donburi featured panko-crusted chicken, sweet dashi-simmered onions, and slivers of green scallions mixed into a palate-pleasing, slightly runny, egg scramble. The chicken was tender and relatively unseasoned, juxtaposing the savory soy sauce gravy which coated the sweet concoction of egg-y toppings.

Rice is almost always delegated to a supporting role, but the rice in my donburi was deserving of taking center stage at Zento. Cooked to chewy perfection, the rice sopped up every last ounce of the rich gravy goodness, providing sustenance and satisfaction in each bite.

The only gripe I have to pick with Zento (and Asian establishments, in general) is sticking a price tag on a cup of hot tea. With exceptions of gourmet and steeped-to-order teas, o-cha is customarily complimentary in traditional Japanese restaurant settings. I was charged $2 when I asked for a single cup of hot tea, which, by the way, tasted watery and not particularly good. That said, Lunchers, take heed and save the $2 you would have spent on mediocre tea and buy a box of Yamamoto-Yama teabags instead.

Zento is truly a gem in a city with so few Japanese options. Offering delicious lunch fare at bargain price points, I plan to make many, many returns to try at least one entree in each of Zento’s four “Express Lunch” categories!

The + (What someone who likes this place would say)

• Tasty Japanese lunch fare
• With one exception, lunch menu is priced $10 and under

The – (What someone who doesn’t like this place would say)

• $2 for mediocre tea

Zento, 138 Chestnut Street, (215) 925-9998