Midtown Lunch

I like to explore the Eastern European restaurants that lie north of the Center City, and the results have always been impressive. On my trip to Stolovaya,  a Russian restaurant in North Philly, my friends noticed that the menu and some of the decor had changed since their last time there. Having sung praises of the old Stolovaya, that should have been the first hint that things weren’t going to be as good as their memories.

The borsht was way too thin for me, though the flavor was nice.

Marinated mushrooms were a little too squeaky to have come from something other than a can or jar. But the lightly fried zucchini pancakes ($5) were my favorite of the day.  Soft on the inside, crispy on the outside, and a nice vegetal flavor.

I was hoping that an order of homefries would consist of the crispy slices of potatoes that other Eastern European restaurants have delivered. Instead, we got boring french fries with more mushrooms on top.

The garlicky chicken tebaka was covered in spices and garlic, so it was not bad, I just wished the skin was more crisp.

So I have my spots for Polish and Uzbeki food, but I still need to find the perfect Russian meal. Suggestions are welcome

THE + (What somebody who likes this place would say)

• The menu offers things that are harder to come by in Philly
• Great zucchini pancakes

THE – (What somebody who doesn’t like this place would say)

• Some of the menu items are a definite miss

Stolovaya, 9846 Bustleton Ave, 215 698-2584