Midtown Lunch

This week our most recently Profiled Luncher John heads down to the wildly popular Federal Donuts. I am JEALOUS!

The opening of Federal Donuts in October presented a fascinating question: What happens when successful and respected chefs and restaurant partners open up a restaurant featuring a limited menu of only fried chicken and donuts in a neighborhood that’s off the beaten path in Philadelphia? The answer, as the throngs of people who’ve visited in the past two months can attest, is that if your food is good, then people are willing to come to your restaurant regardless of what you serve and where it is. Such is the story with the newest and best reason to make a trip to Pennsport.

Chef Michael Solomonov and business partner Steve Cook are part of the team behind Federal Donuts, which was established on the observation that there weren’t too many local establishments in the city with good, fresh donuts or fried chicken. That somewhat unusual combination is not necessarily intended to be eaten together like chicken and waffles (though it can be). Instead, Federal Donuts specializes in serving hot, fresh donuts in the morning before stopping at around 11 a.m. to prepare the fryer to cook up the fried chicken.

Fried chicken comes either crispy or glazed, with different seasoning styles available. It’s twice fried, with the chicken first marinated with a spice blend, fried once and then once again. The first variation I tried was the Za’atar ($9), which came recommended by Steve Cook as his favorite. This style utilizes Michael Solomonov’s expertise in dealing with Middle Eastern spices. The aroma of the spices is unmistakable, and it tasted like no other fried chicken I’ve ever had. Each of the four pieces was sizable. Meat was plentiful, and there was not too much fat.  The twice frying created a very crispy chicken, and the flavor was addictive. You pretty much savor each bite.

Of course, when you’re at Federal Donuts, it’s almost mandatory to order one of the specialty donuts. Though the fresh, hot donuts are only sold until 11 a.m., the fancy donuts ($2 a piece), which are made ahead of time, are sold all day until they run out. Flavors include White Chocolate-Raspberry, Apple-Cinnamon-Walnut, Key Lime and Nutella-Tehina-Pomegranate. My personal favorite is the Key Lime, with the flavor standing out. The Nutella-Tehina-Pomegranate has Nutella infused within the donut along with a pomegranate glaze. As a sucker for anything Nutella, it stumps me why more donuts or other deserts don’t incorporate Nutella.

You thought I was done with the chicken? Nope, just took a donut break. I also had the opportunity to try the Chile-Garlic fried chicken. This version was glazed and is definitely reminiscent of Korean fried chicken. Despite its name, the fried chicken has some kick but is not too spicy. The glaze adds some sweetness and can be tasted on each bite. Similar to the Za’atar, the amount of meat was more than adequate, and there was not too much fat at all.

It was worth the trip for me, and everyone else willing to wait out the lines would probably agree.

THE + (What somebody who likes this place would say)

• Superb variations and hearty portions of fried chicken
• A bonus honey syrup-soaked donut comes with each chicken order
• The fancy donuts are as delicious as they look

THE – (What somebody who doesn’t like this place would say)

• Somewhat distant from Center City
• There’ll probably be a wait before you can order and before the food arrives, and the chicken does run out every day
• $2 is a bit pricey for a donut

Federal Donuts, 1219 S. 2nd Street, 267-687-8258