Midtown Lunch

Pho Hoa is an international chain, which had previously persuaded me to seek my Viet soup elsewhere. But when I bit the bullet and dined there, I was pleasantly surprised by one soup in particular.

For the first appetizer, shrimp on sugar cane did not impress. The shrimp paste was really bland. I much prefer the version at Pho Xe Lau.

A dish that I also ordered here and at my visit to Pho Xe Lau was the beef carpacio. Again, Pho Xe Lau wins. Their version was more refined. But as far as appetizers go, this heap of marinated beef is delicious and a better choice over the shrimp on sugar cane.

Regarding the standard clear brothed pho, we were not impressed. It was so mild in flavor  that even the addition of the hot sauce, vinegar, chili oils, lime and other accouterments couldn’t get it where it needed to be. At least the menu was user friendly and explained what you could add in and leave out.

I made the bold decision to forgo the regular clear beef brothed pho “tai” we always get in favor of something I never tried before- pho bo kho. This beef and carrot stew is thicker and darker than its counterpart. I was most taken with the depth of flavor that the broth possessed. While pho usually benefits from condiments, this needed nothing. The spicy, meaty flavored was sweetened by the carrot.  Noodles were hidden in the depths of the broth, ensuring that this bowl will get you full. The large sized bowl was under $8.

This was worth the trip. Regular pho is like the plain girl of the group you talk to because you have to, while pho bo kho is that one with that special something that brings all the boys to the yard.

I checked with the waiter to make sure I got the correct bowl of soup among my group, asking “beef with carrot, right?” Something got lost in the communication and the eager to please waiter brought me out a small bowl of baby carrots. I thought I might munch of them, but when I picked one up I discovered that instead of being raw they must have been boiled; they felt flaccid. ‘A’ for effort though.

The meat inside the soup was not for me. It was 80% tendon and I had to pluck the pieces out. Crunchy, slimy meat might work for a braver soul though.

Despite the abundance of tendon, stick with the pho bo kho and enjoy every slurp of that broth.

THE + (What somebody who likes this place would say)

• Pho Bo Ka has the broth of an angel

THE – (What somebody who doesn’t like this place would say)

• The appetizers are better at Pho Xe Lau
• The regular pho is better at Pho Ha

Pho Hoa, 1111 S 11th St (@ 9th) 215 755-4000