Midtown Lunch

Last month’s lunch at the Bill Esparza approved Gish Bac on Washington near Crenshaw gave me a serious craving for mole.  Ordering mole in L.A. is always a crapshoot, but Gish Bac’s red and black versions are everything you hope for when you go all in on a new place.  Thick, complex, fragrant… it’s the kind of sauce that sticks with you for awhile, giving you hope that greatness might, just might, be found in any old Oaxacan place in any part of the city.  And it was that optimism that brought me into El Jacalito, a tiny little joint on Washington near Centinela in Culver City.

If you have ever been to A-Frame or Waterloo & City then you’ve driven right past El Jacalito (it’s practically across the street), but chances are you didn’t notice it.  The recommissioned Whole Foods awning isn’t exactly enticing, and the writing on the windows looks like it could be selling used cars in New Mexico.

Inside, though, is a completely different story.  The decor is minimal and the place is tiny, but the familial service makes you feel like you’re eating in somebody’s living room (complete with telenovelas playing on a wall hung TV.)  The menu is fairly standard for a Los Angeles Oaxacan restaurant, complete with requisite mole negro, coloradito, tlayudas and more.  Nothing jumped out at me, so I figured I’d start with the basics.  Mole negro it is!

The first tip off that El Jacalito was going to be better than average was the salsa that came with the chips.  Bright and rustic, they didn’t hold back on the spice.

Tip #2 that things were going to be good?  The fresh, handmade tortillas.  Muy delicioso.

And finally the mole negro ($7.50), which they insisted was completely homemade from a blend of different spices (no store bought paste.)  Thick and sweet (but not overly so), it wasn’t as complex as the version at Gish Bac but still delicious.

Want something to drink?  Their horchata is very good, and comes with the standard Oaxacan add on of “tuna” (not the fish, but a scoop of cactus sherbert.)

They seemed particularly proud of their enchiladas, so on my second visit I decided to go with that… but couldn’t decide between the coloradito or the salsa verde.  Solution?  They said they would make my order with half and half!  Gotta love family run restaurants, all they want to do is please.  Both were very good, although I couldn’t help but think they steered me to the enchiladas because they thought it was what I’d like (as opposed to the best, most unique thing on their menu.)

Both times I visited, there were people tucking into the menudo at multiple tables- a weekend only dish you can usually score at El Jacalito as early as Friday and as late as Monday.

Between the salsa, the fresh tortillas and the quality moles I’d be comfortable ordering anything at this place. And the torta and breakfast photos on their Facebook page look pretty damn tasty as well.  The moles might not be as good as Gish Bac, but I kind of liked it better than Monte Alban and will definitely be back for more.  In other words, if you’re on the westside and craving some good Oaxacan home cooking, Jacalito could be your new favorite spot.

El Jacalito Qaxaqueno, 12618 W Washington Blvd, Culver City. 310-572-4625