We love Sichuan (or “Szechuan”) food, and obviously the original Szechuan Gourmet (on 39th btw. 5+6th) is an old Midtown Lunch fave.  But I think it’s time people focused more on what’s going on at their second location (on 56th btw Bway+8th) And Robert Sietsema agrees! The reason you should pay more attention to them is because they serve basically the same menu and there’s less of a wait. Who wants to spend their lunch break waiting instead of eating? Not I! So, when I sauntered up to the restaurant last week I was pretty excited to see something new on the lunch special menu: crispy boneless duck with garlic sauce ($9.75 after taxes). I wasn’t sure exactly how new it was, but it was certainly new to me. And I figured since rocket ships can’t be built without science, neither can figuring out if lunch specials are worth it. It was for the sake of science that I ventured forth…

When I first opened my bag, I was a little disappointed actually. I thought crispy duck meant that it was roasted til the skin was crispy. This duck was uh, deep fried. Say what?! Yea, deep fried duck (note: it could’ve been frog for all I know, I can’t tell one protein from another). The menu said duck so I believed it was duck. The coating of the fried goodness should be familiar to anyone who eats take-out Chinese food, because that’s what sweet and sour pork looks like. If you’ve never had the Americanized-Chinese food version of sweet and sour pork, it’s basically pork fried like that, served with a side of neon orange mystery sauce. I always figured Szechuan Gourmet to be a few notches above any ordinary take-out joint, so I was willing to try this even though it wasn’t a looker.

Just like sweet and sour pork, the sauce came in a different container. Instead of being orange-ish red, this sauce was just deep red. It’s the color you get when you cook hot bean paste in oil. And that’s pretty much what this sauce is, hot bean paste, oil, ginger, scallions, and garlic. Probably some soy mixed in there as well and some corn-starch slurry to thicken it a bit. All of this is just an educated guess you know, not all parts of science can be proven.

But when you dip the fried duck into the sauce, something magical happens. I mean, more magical than when babies are created. It’s basically sweet and sour pork, but done right and with duck. Don’t get me wrong, this was still very reminiscent of take-out food. It’s just elevated take-out food. For some, the sauce would need to be hotter. I asked for extra spicy and it was pretty much mild. If you like it hot, you probably have to beg them to slaughter you with heat. I’ve sat through many sweaty meals at Szechuan Gourmet on 39th so I know they can do it. As far as science experiments go, this one was an A. You also get to have soup or soda to wash off this wonderfully fried meal, and by the end your stomach should hate you. Sometimes though, you just need lunch to fill you up so much it makes you feel alive.

Szechuan Gourmet, 244 West 56th Street (btw Bway+8th)

Can’t argue with either recommendation (although if push comes to shove I’m still sticking with the twice cooked pork belly with chili and leeks.)

Related:
Snapshots: For Those About to Chaat…
Pork Belly w/ Chili Leeks Still Good at the New Szechuan Gourmet

Great news from the new Szechuan Gourmet (on 56th btw. B’way+8th).  Remember how their menus promised free szechuan pickles with every lunch special, but when they opened the lady at the counter said it was a misprint?  Apparently they’ve changed their mind.  From Lunch’er Grace: “Just ordered pork/leeks from the newest branch of Szechuan Gourmet and am proud to inform you that the pickles have arrived! I received a nice portion with my delivered lunch and it’s nice and crunchy and salty!”

Related:
Pork Belly w/ Chili Leeks Still Good at the New Szechuan Gourmet
Szechuan Gourmet: Day 1 as a NYT 2 Starred Restaurant

The girls answering the phone at the new Szechuan Gourmet said the manager wasn’t available, but that the location “was only Szechuan Gourmet.” Because her English wasn’t good and she seemed to not understand the question, I’d rely more on what the managers of all the other restaurants said…

• Michael Ngai, manager of the 39th Street Szechuan Gourmet branch, says that although they are “good friends” with the other two companies, especially Wu Liang Ye, they “are not doing business together,” and he insists that the new midtown location is in no way a joint venture between the three Szechuan heavyweights. The only difference between the 39th and 56th street SG venues, he says, is “different shareholders.”
• Herman Tang, manager at the 48th Street Wu Liang Ye, says there is “no relation” between his restaurant and any of the Szechuan Gourmets.
• The manager of the Wu Liang Ye at 338 Lexington Ave refused to answer any questions.
• When I called the 86th St. Wu Liang Ye, I spoke to Suzanne Li, the general manager of all their restaurants, who maintained that the information is “totally untrue.”
• The manager of the 7th Avenue Grand Sichuan, Steve Kwok, says they are “not affiliated” with any of the Szechuan Gourmets.

That settles that. Another Chowhound commenter surmised that maybe they meant the kitchen staff was comprised of people who used to work at all three of the other restaurants.  That seems a lot more likely…

Related:
New Szechuan Gourmet is Joint Venture With Wu Liang Ye & Grand Sichuan?
Pork Belly w/ Chili Leeks Still Good at the New Szechuan Gourmet
First Look: Lunch Menu From the New Szechuan Gourmet

After Wednesdays false alarm, I excitedly hit up the new location of Szechuan Gourmet (on 56th btw. B’way+8th) yesterday right at noon, only to find out they were still waiting for the city to give them the green light to open (it came about an hour later.) But they were willing to do take out orders- so I did what had to be done: double cooked pork belly with chili leeks, to go, with white rice and hot and sour soup. The version served at the flagship, two starred NYT, restaurant (on 39th btw. 5+6th) is quite possibly my favorite Chinese food dish in the city. But the question remained, would the version at this new location stand up.

Considering that this could have possibly been the very first plate of double cooked pork belly served out of the kitchen of the new Szechuan Gourmet, I probably wouldn’t have posted anything if it hadn’t lived up to expectations. You know, give them a few weeks to iron out the kinks. Luckily, that was not a concern! Delicious as always. Really delicious. The thinly sliced, fatty pork sauteed with leeks in a slightly sweet Szechuan chili sauce. And the perfect amount of heat (although there are those of you who will undoubtedly want it hotter.)

The lunch special comes with rice plus your choice of a drink or soup (your choice of wonton or hot and sour.) Both are great versions of two soups that can at times be boring or watery (especially when they come free with lunch.) The only disappointment is the menu’s promise of “free szechuan pickle” went unfulfilled. The employee behind the desk said that because they were just opening, it would come with it today. The implication is, eventually you will get it for free with lunch. All I have to say is they better not change the menus. They’ve gotten my hopes up for free Szechuan pickles, and I want free Szechuan pickles!

My only advice with Szechuan Gourmet is to stick with the Szechuan specialties. The only complaints I’ve ever heard about this place came from those who went expecting the best General Tso’s chicken or beef with broccoli they’ve ever had. That’s a mistake. If you want the best SG has to offer, order one of the Szechuan dishes (they all have chili peppers next to them.) Don’t like spicy food? This might not be the best place for you. (Although I’m sure their Americanized Chinese food dishes are good, just not 2 Stars from the New York Times good.)

Related:
First Look: Lunch Menu From the New Szechuan Gourmet
Szechuan Gourmet: Day 1 as a NYT 2 Starred Restaurant

Szechuan Gourmet, 242 W. 56th Street (btw. B’way+8th), 212-265-2226

Check out the full menu of lunch specials after the jump…

Szechuan Gourmet,