My first thought when George Steinbrenner died two weeks ago wasn’t of Yankee Stadium or championship trophies, it was of Larry David’s voice. I guess I’m a bigger Seinfeld fan than Yankees fan. One of my favorite Steinbrenner episodes of Seinfeld is when he becomes obsessed with George’s lunchtime calzone stuffed with cheese, pepperoni and eggplant, and starts making George bring him one everyday. The spell that calzone casts on Steinbrenner always makes me crave one. So, to honor The Boss, I headed out to some of Midtown’s most notable pizzerias in search of Midtown’s best calzone. See what I found after the jump.

PAPA PERRONE TRUCK

Papa Perrone’s Pizza Truck (55th btw. Mad+Park) has been serving calzones as a special on Tuedays for a couple of weeks now. They have a normal cheese variety and a “Bensonhurst Special,” which comes with ham or meatballs. I went with the ham. Papa Perrone’s calzones are really loaded with cheese. The ricotta and mozzarella are so prevalent that I could actually feel my arteries clogging after a few bites. This is kind of a good problem though, because the cheese tasted great. Stringy mozzarella and creamy ricotta – just the way things should be. Papa Perrone’s had the best cheese of all the calzones I tried.

The ham was sliced thin like sandwich meat. I actually liked this more than the thicker chunks of ham I’m used to seeing in calzones. It does mean that the cheese and ham are basically in layers rather than mixed all together though. My calzone also could have used a little more time in the oven. The crust didn’t have that golden brown hue and was a little gummy. I don’t really mind that too much, but if you’re looking for a really crisp crust, you might be disappointed because they turn these around pretty fast in the truck. They give you some heated up marinara on the side (I really hate it when places give you a little cup of refrigerated tomato sauce).

Perrone’s charges $8.50 for their calzones. They’re quite large and offer a ton of cheese, but I got a little bored before I finished it. I’d be happy to split one and also get a slice or something else.

LAZZARA’S PIZZA

Next up is Lazzara’s (on 38th btw. 7+8). They have cheese, ham, broccoli and spinach options. I stuck with ham but I was very tempted by the spinach. Lazzara’s calzone isn’t nearly as big as Perrone’s, but it’s very well made. As you can see, the crust is a nice golden brown.

Inside, the cheese and ham are all mixed up offering a more consistent meal. Although I didn’t like the cheese or ham as much in Perrone’s calzone. Lazzara’s charges $6.50 for the ham calzone, but they also charge you 75 cents for a side of tomato sauce. That’s pretty lame but the sauce didn’t add a lot in this case so not getting it is a viable option. It was heated though, so that’s good. All in all, it was a nice, satisfying lunch but nothing spectacular. I will probably go back to try the spinach.

PATZERIA’S PERFECT PIZZA

Patzeria Perfect Pizza (46th btw. 7+8) hasn’t gotten much attention on Midtown Lunch, but it’s got a pretty good reputation (and it’s close to my office), so I decided to give their calzone a try. They list cheese, pepperoni, ham, meatball and sausage as options. They just take an already made calzone, slice it open and put the toppings in there though, so I bet they would put in anything that’s readily available behind the counter. I didn’t realize this before ordering so I just went with the sausage.

Patzeria’s calzone was very unremarkable. The crust was beyond crisp and was kind of hard. I don’t think sitting in the window for hours had done this thing any favors. The cheese was nothing special but the sausage was pretty tasty. It comes with a side of heavily seasoned (heated) tomato sauce. I’m a little suspicious of this sauce (like I think it might have come from a jar), but this calzone benefited more from its accompanying sauce than any of the others, so it’s a good thing it’s there.

Patzeria charges $7.95, which is definitely steep for what you’re getting. The calzone wasn’t terrible (I think it’s kind of hard to make a terrible calzone considering how much of it is simply melted mozzarella). I’d consider going back since it’s the closest to where I work, but I wouldn’t go out of my way for it.

PREVITI PIZZA

My calzone search seemed like a good reason to finally check out the very well liked Previti Pizza (41st btw. Park+Lex), and I’m extremely glad that I did. Their menu prompts you to choose any one of their toppings to go in your calzone. After perusing the list, I knew what I had to do; this was my chance to try The Costanza: cheese, pepperoni and eggplant. They charged me extra for the second topping (I fully expected this), but they didn’t give me any trouble. This opens up a whole world of calzone experimentation using Previti’s extensive list of toppings.

Obviously this is another place that cuts open the calzone and shoves your chosen toppings inside. Previti’s cheese was good, and I especially appreciated the ricotta cheese that had some kind of seasoning mixed in. The pepperoni and eggplant were a little on the skimpy side, but nothing offensive. In fact, I was happy that it wasn’t loaded with the toppings because the whole thing comes together really well. Previti gives you a side of tomato sauce and it was the freshest tasting tomato sauce I had at any of these places, but they didn’t heat it up! It’s very disappointing (and shocking) that the place that gets everything else right managed to get this wrong.

Previti’s calzones are $4.95 with one topping. Mine was $5.71 before tax so I guess they charged me 76 cents for that second topping. That’s a great deal considering the quality of the calzone and what I paid other places. I can’t wait to go back and experiment with different combinations.

LA BELLEZZA

My final stop was La Bellezza (49th btw. Lex+3rd). Their calzone looks more like some sort of cheese dome than what I expect a calzone to look like, with the top of the crust rising well above the rest of the ingredients. And the star of La Bellezza’s calzone is that crust. It’s great. The top portion was thin and perfectly crisp. I think all that space between the cheese and the crust might be the key. This is another place that slices open a calzone and tosses your toppings in there, but they only advertise cheese, ham, ground beef and sausage on their menu. I went with the sausage.

Maybe calling it a cheese volcano would have been more appropriate. Between the ocean of cheese flowing from the calzone and its unusual shape, it was a little difficult to eat and I definitely needed a fork and knife to start it off. The cheese was good and there was a ton of mozzarella, which is just how I like it. The sausage was pretty unnecessary as it is completely drowned in cheese and there isn’t enough of it to really stand out. The whole thing had some seasoning thrown in which really helps calzone from becoming monotonous. The cheese made this a difficult one to finish, although I think a large part of that is calzone fatique setting in. The calzone comes with a side of (heated) heavily seasoned tomato sauce.

At $5.75 La Bellezza’s calzone is a pretty good option for lunch especially if you really care about the crust. Just make sure you’re ready to eat a ton of cheese as well.

If I had to pick a winner from this group, it would definitely be Previti. Theirs came closest to the legendary status of the Seinfeld calzone. The price, quality and number of options makes them my go-to calzone provider for the time being, but I’ll keep my eyes open for challengers.

Papa Perrone’s Truck, 55th btw. Madison+Park, 917-880-1432
Lazzara’s, 221 West 38th St. (btw. 7+8), 212-944-7792
Patzeria Perfect Pizza, 231 West 46th St. (btw. B’way+7), 212-575-7646
Previti Pizza, 122 East 41st (btw. Lex+Park), 212-557-4992
La Bellezza’s, 145 East 49th (btw. Lex+3rd), 212-871-3223

Thanks to Lunch’er “Spencer” for passing along this one… the Lazzara’s (on 9th Ave. btw. 43+44th) is now selling slices of cheese pizza for $1.50. Sadly, it’s only available at the just out of bounds location (not the 38th St. one) but $1.50 is a decent price for one of the better slices of pizza in Midtown. Don’t believe us? Time Out New York included them in their Cheap Eats issue, out today.

Related:
Lazzara’s Pizza to Get a Second Location; Original Still Hoppin’

Gourmet’s Associate Art Director Kevin Demaria photographed the final days of Gourmet Magazine and has posted them to a website. It’s a sad but touching tribute to a place that meant a great deal to many people (some of them Midtown Lunch’ers), but I couldn’t help but smile when I saw the Lazzara’s pizza boxes.  A worthy last supper indeed. [via Eat Me Daily]

Use the cloudy pasta water to loosen up your pasta dishes (which should be more about the noodle, and only lightly coated with the sauce), everything gets finished with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil, and finally- you don’t put cheese on seafood. That last one always seemed weird since cheese goes good on everything, but I trusted Mario, and would always forgo parmesan on my fettuccine with shrimp (my wife never held back, and openly laughed in my face). This went on until went went to Chile and had the most amazing scallops covered in melted parmesan. They were delicious, and I finally decided… if it’s good enough for the Chileans, it’s good enough for me!

With that in mind, I visited Lazzara’s yesterday to try their entry in the Midtown Lunch Sandwich challenge.  A fried calamari and fresh mozzarella sandwich (Mario be damned!)

One of the main rules of the Midtown Lunch sandwich challenge was to keep the price as much under $10 as possible, and while a few places have charged a cynical $9.99- it’s hard to fault Lazzara’s for this sandwich. Reason 1: The thing is massive. Seriously. It’s probably the largest hero I’ve ever seen in Midtown. I didn’t measure, but I’m pretty sure it’s a foot long, and a solid torpedo with quite some heft. Reason 2: There is a ton of fried calamari in the sandwich, and a good amount of fresh mozzarella. Fried calamari is not the most expensive thing in the world, but it’s not super cheap either. So between that, and the size, it’s kind of worth the $10 they charge.

As for the consistency, it’s hard to really know for sure because at the Lazzara’s on 38th btw. 7+8th you either order from a waiter or take the food to go… and if you take it to go, it spends some time wrapped in the foil- which makes for some soggy fried calamari. I don’t like advocating eating at sit down restaurants too often, but the sooner you can eat this thing, the better it’s going to be. The sauce, which is spotted with red pepper flakes, is really tasty and has a nice kick. And while the calarmai is slightly chewy (which may also be because of the time spent sealed in the foil) it has a good flavor, and it’s more calamari then breading (always a positive.) In other words, I’m guessing it doesn’t come frozen in a bag…

So, if you have nothing against fried calamari, fresh mozzarella, and a slightly spicy red sauce on a giant Italian sub roll… this sandwich is for you. If you like your subs slightly soggy, you can even order it for takeout with reckless abandon! (If you’re in a rush, I’d advise ordering in advance… Lazzarra’s can take a little while.)

Mario Batali disciples, you don’t know what you’re missing!

Lazzara’s Pizza, 221 W. 38th St. (btw. 7+8th), 212-944-7792

Sandwich not available at their 9th Ave. Location.

The newer location of Lazzara’s Pizza, located just out of bounds on 9th Ave. btw. 44+45th, has just introduced a recession special from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.: If you purchase a soda, you can get a single slice of pizza for 99 cents (and a second slice for $1.50.) They’re also selling a full 6 slice pie for $8.99 (normally $11.50). Both deals are walk in only, and not available at the original location on 38th btw. 6+7th, but it may be worth the extra walk if you’re as cheap as I am.

Midtown Lunch favorite Lazzara’s Pizza (on 38th btw. 6+7th) opened the doors to their second location today. The tiny new location is take out and delivery only, and just out of the Midtown Lunch boundaries (on 9th Ave. btw. 43+44th) but all the food is the same. As of now, it’s much less hectic than the original- but that could definitely change as time goes on. And, even though it’s not on the menu- they do sell single slices. (In fact, I found out today that they’ll sell you a single slice of cheese at the original location as well. They just don’t like to publicize it.) A single slice ends up being $2.40.

Interior shots, and why (a few of) you might care after the jump… 

This new location isn’t technically in the Midtown Lunch boundaries, but I was hoping it would increase their delivery range. When I tried to get Lazzarra’s on 38th to deliver to my office on 48th and 6th, they told me I would have to pay for the delivery guy’s cab (which would have made lunch way too expensive.) The new location is probably closer for people who work in Midtown West above 42nd Street, and one of the owners said they may deliver as far East as 6th Avenue in the 40s (although they haven’t figured out the exact range yet.) Truthfully, they’ll deliver as far away as you want- as long as you’re willing to pay for the cab!

We’ll see how that works out. Either way, if you work in Midtown West this may or may not be quicker and easier for you than the original.

Lazzara’s Pizza, 617 9th Avenue (btw. 43+44th), 212-245-4440

Read about the original Lazzara’s location here.

The second location of Lazzara’s pizza is starting to come together nicely, and they are hoping to open the second week of September (maybe the 12th, 13th or 14th.) While the new location is slightly out of bounds (9th Ave. btw. 43+44th), it will hopefully ease the burden on the original Midtown Lunch location (on 38th btw. 7+8th.)

The new location will be take out only. Check out a photo of the inside (if that is your thing) after the jump…  

Big news out of the Midtown pizza front: Lazzara’s, the relatively old school sit down pizza place on 38th btw. 7+8th is getting a second location on 9th Ave. btw. 43+44th. Opened 23 years ago, the original Lazzara’s has been mentioned a few times on this site in the comments, usually when the discussion of best chicken parm is raised. Unlike the original, which is opened Monday through Friday and only until 9 p.m., the new location will be opened 24 hours, and according to Tony Lazzara will be standing room only, delivery and take out.  Slightly out of bounds for Midtown Lunch’ing purposes, the 9th Ave. location will hopefully lighten the lunchtime load on the original, which has some pretty long wait times between Noon and 2pm.  They expect the new place to be up and running in the next 2-3 months.

With so many cheap, order-at-a-counter-and-take-it-to-a-table pizza and chicken parm places in Midtown, Lazzara’s isn’t really a prototypical Midtown Lunch. But with food this fresh and good, and a fairly busy take out business, it’s tough to ignore. Check out what they’ve got, after the jump…

Lazzara’s is Midtown old school at its finest.  Pretty well hidden on 38th btw. 7+8th, it’s about as close to a “real deal” pizza place that we’ve got in this area.  There are no tourists to be found in the small, dimly lit dining room with white brick walls, but there’s a steady flow of freshly baked square pies that come flying out of the kitchen.  They have a counter where you can order takeout, and a small waiting area- but wait times during lunch can be long, so I would strongly recommend ordering in advance.  It’s not cheap, especially for the amount of food you get, but everything is made fresh, the pizza is better than average, and you can definitely leave full for under $10.

Finding the best chicken parm in Midtown has been a pretty tough task, but there are those who have awarded Lazzara’s with that distinction.  The sandwich is $8 and there is no arguing with the fact that it is one of the better chicken parms in Midtown.  But with Labelecaso close (40th & 7th) you could argue it isn’t worth the extra money.  Even so, it’s huge, they make it fresh… it’s a damn good chicken parm.

But the pizzas are what this place is known for, and if you’re looking for fresh baked, not too thick, sicilian style pies, you’d be hard pressed to find a better version than Lazzara’s.  Sold as a half or whole, their pizza is square, but with a thin crust that kicks up a little bit at the end, and has a really nice char.  Unlike the Jiannetto’s Pizza Truck, which does a cheese-less grandma slice, Lazzara’s piles on the white stuff. 

The downside of the pies is pretty clear the first time you get one.  A whole pie will run you anywhere from $11.50 to $18, and it doesn’t really feed more than 2 people.  With 6 smallish slices, it measures only 10 inches by 12 inches, and only the most conservative of eaters would be full after two slices (and I would imagine some Midtown Lunch readers would need 3+).  They also offer half pies (three smallish slices), which range from $5.75 to $9 depending on your choice of toppings- clearly falling into the Midtown Lunch price range, but it’s hard not to feel like maybe pizza at lunchtime should be a little bit cheaper.

That being said, if you are a pizza aficionado, you’ll be hard pressed to find a more serious pie in Midtown, and when looked at from that perspective, the prices are a little easier to swallow. They also offer free delivery, but it’s unclear exactly what their range is.  I once called and asked if they would deliver to 48th St. and 6th Ave., and they said “sure, but you’ll have to pay for the taxi the delivery guy will take.”  Hopefully that problem will be solved by the new 9th Ave. location.

THE +

• Old school Italian, for under $10
• Everything is made fresh to order
• The pizza is the real deal
• They have a lot of interesting combo pies

THE -

• It’s a sit down restaurant, so for it to be Midtown Lunch’ish you have to take the food to go
• It’s pricey, especially for the size of the pies.
• Wait times for take out can be long during lunch time, so it’s best to order your food ahead

Lazzara’s, 221 W. 38th St. (btw. 7+8th), 212-944-7792

new location coming soon to 617 9th Ave (btw. 43+44th)